Ireturned to Viet Nam for the second time in late April 2005 to attend aveteran's, photojournalist's and war correspondent's reunion tocoincide with the 30th anniversary of the end of the war; April 30th. Ihad already decided to tour the Mekong Delta, where I had nevertraveled, so, after a week in Sai Gon attending events, photographingthe sights and visiting with friends I set out. Delta Adventure Toursoffers a 3-day package tour continuing on into Cambodia on the morningof the fourth day but as I wanted to spend more than one night in eachtown I made arrangements to pick up the trip every other day.
DayOne, Friday, 5/6: Sai Gon to My Tho. At 8:00 AM myself and about 14others board a boat at the wharf on Ton Duc Thang Blvd. for the trip toMy Tho. Cruising down the Sai Gon River we pass a large variety ofcommercial craft heading both up & down-river; merchant ships,heavily-laden cargo boats, small sampans and fishing vessels. As we getfurther away from the city we pick up speed and the banks change frombuildings to lush green foliage. At 11:30 we arrive at My Tho. Myhotel, the Chuong Duong, is right on the river. After lunch I exploreMy Tho, a pleasant little town on the banks of the Tien Giang branch ofthe Mekong. I visit the Cao Dai temple, the ferry landing, the CentralMarket and then just wander the streets until dark.
Day Two,Saturday, 5/7: Ben Tre. After an unsuccessful negotiation the previousafternoon to hire a car through Tien Giang Tourist to take me to BenTre today, I have to decided to go there on my own. Primary goal is tofind and photograph the two Cao Dai temples there. I cross the river onthe ferry. After some difficulties and a rather roundabout journey Iarrive at the first temple just in time for the noon service. Thekindly elders show me around the whole complex which I have carteblanche to shoot. After a late lunch I wander the town visiting themarket and waterfront. I pass on trying to find the second temple; mylimited Vietnamese language skills are not up to explaining, itsSaturday, Ben Tre Tourist offices are closed, there are no taxis, onlyxe om, xe may loi & xe dap loi so, in the late afternoon I get a xeom back to the ferry landing to return to My Tho.
Day Three, Sunday, 5/8: My Tho to Can Tho. I spend the morning shootingin the market & around town. At 12:30 the Delta guide arrives toinform me that the bus that is to take us to Can Tho will be late dueto a flat tire. I wait it out in the rain with the others. We get offaround 3:00 PM; it's slow going; traffic + rain = accidents. Thehighlight of this trip is crossing the new bridge at Vinh Long. At theferry crossing there's a 30 min. wait to cross the Hau Giang so wedon't arrive in Can Tho until well after dark. I get a xe dap loi to myhotel, the A Chau, where, after a little negotiation, I get a balconyroom for $2.00 more than an interior. Then it's out for dinner and aquick look around before retiring early.
Day Four, Monday, 5/9: CanTho. Up early & down to the waterfront, which is bustling withactivity. I let an old woman persuade me into going on a 2-hour canaltour in her small boat. Not as interesting as advertised but I get somegood shots. After lunch I meet Anh Hau, a former ARVN interpreter whospeaks excellent English. I retain his services as a guide & we setoff on his xe om to explore the city; the market, a couple of templesand other sights. Can Tho is a really nice town. Friendly people, greatsights & good food. I'm having a great time here.
Day Five,Tuesday, 5/10: Can Tho. Up at 6:00 AM for a 7:00 AM departure on a boattrip to the Cai Rang & Phong Dien floating markets. This is veryinteresting; lots of activity as we move among the boats selling everykind of fruit & vegetable grown in the Delta. After a brief stop atan orchard for fruit and tea we head back to town in the pouring rain.After lunch I hook up with Anh Hau again to continue exploring Can Tho,including a trip to the supermarket to get some provisions fortomorrow's trip.
Day Six, Wednesday, 5/11: Can Tho to LongXuyen/Chau Doc. At 8:00 AM we're off on the bus to Long Xuyen wherewe'll get on a boat to continue on to Chau Doc. The bus trip isuninteresting but the boat trip is fantastic. It's great to be back onthe river again, this time the Hau Giang, and I'm enjoying, andshooting, the variety of sights along the way including the sunset. Wearrive in Chau Doc after dark. While the others pile onto the tour busI get a xe dap loi to my hotel, the Thuan Loi. It's been an exhaustingday so I decide to treat myself and have dinner at the Victoria ChauDoc, the city's luxury hotel. A sumptuous meal served by gorgeous womenin a beautiful colonial-style dining room. Who could ask for more!
Day Seven, Thursday, 5/12: Chau Doc. Up and out early to go exploringas I have only one full day here. The morning is spent in Chau Doc townin the markets, temples & waterfront. After lunch I hire a xe omfor the trip up Nui Sam, where I go to the temples and get my firstlook at Cambodia from the summit. The landscape is green & lushwith rice paddies extending in every direction. At the base of themountain I visit two more temples before heading back to town. Dinnerat a floating restaurant caps off the day.
Day Eight, Friday, 5/13:Chau Doc - Vinh Suong. My last day in Viet Nam. A few tense momentsthis AM as I think the Delta folks have forgotten about me & I'mgoing to be left behind. A few calls solve the problem and as if bymagic a xe om appears to take me to the boat landing. The trip to VinhSuong takes about 2 hours. We disembark and climb up the riverbank toclear Vietnamese immigration & customs. In the customs shed thereis a gigantic airport-style X-ray machine; an anachronism in thisremote place. Upon exiting a crowd of boys vie to carry our bags forthe 200-meter walk into Camdodia. After passing Cambodian immigrationit's onto another boat to continue upriver to Phnom Penh, but... that'sanother story.
Summary: I set out to see if I could travel aroundViet Nam by myself with minimal planning and assistance from organizedtour operators, as I like the freedom to go where & when I want.Surprisingly, I was able to do so without much difficulty. When I wasready to move on I consulted my guidebook, chose a hotel, called aheadand reserved a room. This worked every time. I then called Delta in SaiGon and told them I was ready to pick up the tour. To be sure therewere a few tense moments when I thought I had been forgotten but theyalways came through, if a bit late. My limited Vietnamese-languageskills came in quite handy and at the very least drew surprise, smiles& laughter from those I was attempting to communicate with. Thecell phone I purchased in Sai Gon was a lifesaver. I'd do a similartrip again without reservation. Everybody I met was warm and friendlyand eager to help; many even volunteered without my asking. I'dencourage anyone contemplating a similar journey to... GO FOR IT! Inshort, I had a wonderful time, made some new friends and got to see oneof the most fascinating areas of Viet Nam - my way - not sitting onsome tour bus.
Published on 6/19/06

 

(Source: www.thingsasian.com)