Earlyversions of the “Ao Dai”date back to 1744 when Lord Vu Vuong of theNguyen Dynasty decreed both men and women should wear an ensemble oftrousers and a gown that buttoned down the front. However, not until1930 did “Ao Dai”appear partly similar to its look today. Now, Men woreit less, generally only on ceremonial occasions such as weddings orfunerals. During the 1950s two tailors in Saigon started producing “AoDai”with raglan sleeves. This creates a diagonal seam running from thecollar to the underarm and this style is still preferred today

“AoDai”is made individually to fit each customer's shape to create themost graceful look. Its body-hugging top flows over wide trousers thatbrush the floor. The pants should reach the soles of the feet and flowalong the floor. Splits in the gown extend well above waist height andmake it comfortable and easy to move in.

Comfortabilityis always taken into account for fashions and beauty. Tailoring mustensure the wearer's freedom of movements. Despite it is a long robe,“Ao Dai”must be cool to wear. Synthetic or silk fabrics are preferredas they do not crush and are quick drying, making the “Ao Dai”apractical uniform for daily wear.

Thecolor is indicative of the wearer's age and status. Young girls wearpure white, fully-lined outfits symbolizing their purity. Older butunmarried girls move into soft pastel shades. Only married women wear“Ao Dai”in strong, rich colors, usually over white or black pants.However, “Ao Dai”is rarely seen in places where manual work ispracticed. The nineties saw a real resurgence of ao dai. It has becomestandard and common attire for girl students as well as female staff atoffices and hotels. Traditionally, “Ao Dai”has become the mostpreferred dress on formal occasions.

Today,“Ao Dai”has been a bit modified. Its length is cut shorter usually justbelow the knee. Variations in the neck, between boat and mandarinstyle, are common. And even adventurous alterations such as a lowscooped neckline, puffed sleeves or off the shoulder designs areappearing as ladies experiment with fashion. Color patterns are nolonger rigidly controlled and accesses to new fabrics have generatedsome dazzling results. However, most visitors to Vietnam have highlyappreciated local tailors' skills when making ao dai. It is hard tothink of a more elegant, demure and charming outfit, that suitsVietnamese women of different ages, than ao dai.