Imagesof graceful girls in national charming long dress have been a symbol ofVietnam. However, looking back the historic development of nationaldress, Vietnam not only has “Ao Dai” but also “Ao Yem” – the indispensable dress of ancient girls.

“Ao Yem” appeared in Vietnamese life in a very old day, yet, not until Ly dynasty was it basically shaped. During those days, “Ao Yem” was called “Yem”. Avery simple garment consisting of a square piece of cloth with onecorner cut away to fit under the woman’s throat. This scrap of fabricis secured across the chest and stomach within strings. Traditionally,this halter-top was worn beneath a shirt, the flaps of which were oftenleft unbuttoned to reveal “the ao yem”. Urbanwomen favoured white, pink or red ones, while those in the suburbpreferredbrown or beige, suited for their rustic environment.

Through thestream of history, “Ao Yem” was changing incessantly with improvingdesign. However the revolutions of “Ao Yem” only happended at thebeginning of the last century when western trousers and skirts entered Vietnam. In 17^th century, “Ao Yem” did not have any big change of model. Entering 20^th century, “Ao Yem” was used widespread with plentiful designs and models.

Thereis one kind of “Ao Yem”, which was often worn by ancient ladies, beingcalled “Yem deo bua”. Its name derived from the fact that it has asmall pocket of musk beside, which was an advantageous weapon ofancient ladies. Furthermore, “Ao Yem”created many original love stories. In the old days, when a girl datedwith her boyfriend, she put a piece of betel inside her “Ao Yem”; itwas called “khau trau dai yem”. Perhaps there is no kind of betel moresupernatural than this one.

Itis an age-old dress which is maintained until today. “Ao Yem” was usedby all levels of society from working class to upper one. It was alsoused widespread in traditional festivals, therefore becoming thenational traditional clothes of ancient ladies. While the wearers may age, the ao yem retains its timeless charm.

Today,the “Ao yem” is appreciated for its cultural and artistic values. Onfestive occasions, women throughout Vietnam are embracing the ao yemand other traditional clothes with renewed enthusiasm.