Christianitywas introduced to Vietnam in the 16th century by missionaries fromEurope’s main Catholic evangelist countries, France, Spain andPortugal. One of the early arrivals was Alexandre de Rhodes, a FrenchJesuit who greatly impressed the Trinh lords who ruled the north atthat time, thus easing the way for permanent missions in Hanoi, Danangand Hoi An.

Expulsion from Vietnam
Asthe creator of the Romanised written form of the Vietnamese language,Alexandre de Rhodes could justifiably be considered as one of thefounding fathers of modern Vietnam. However, his reward was expulsionalong with all the other Christians when the Trinh lords decided thatChristianity in the form of Catholicism was subverting the beliefs thatkept them in power. Apart from its later use in the Catholic Church inVietnam, his script was ignored until the 20th century.

However, de Rhodes continued to proselytise through the Societe desMission Etrangeres, a French evangelical organisation he helped tocreate, seeking converts throughout Indochina. In the following years,Catholicism was re-established in Vietnam and grew rapidly.

Oppression under Minh Mang
Bythe beginning of the 19th century, there were many thousands ofCatholics in Vietnam. Catholicism’s relationship with Vietnam’s rulerswas uneasy: the kings were wary of its doctrine of equality in the eyesof God, a belief that directly challenged the feudal Confucian systemthat legitimated their control. Under King Ming Manh, a strictConfucian, suspicion turned to oppression. Churches were razed, andVietnamese and foreign devotees refusing to renounce their faith wereexecuted.

Enter the French
MinhMang’s excesses, although much exaggerated, gave the French the excusethey were looking for to invade, and Catholicism was reinstated. TheCatholic Church flourished under the colonialists’ patronage, openingmissions, schools and hospitals all over the country, and becomingVietnam’s largest landowner. Vietnamese Catholics were favoured abovetheir compatriots and became an educated elite.

An exodus to the south
Bythe 1950s, with the communists governing in the north, over half amillion Catholics crossed the demilitarised zone to settle in thesouth, then controlled by the Saigon regime led by President Ngo DinhDiem, a Catholic. Those that remained in the north were allowed tocontinue to practice their faith, but under tight control.

The post-war years
Afterreunification, the communists placed restrictions on the CatholicChurch and imprisoned several of its leaders who had actively opposedthe new government. Since then, controls have relaxed and relationshipsbetween Vietnam and the Vatican have become cordial. However, a papalvisit to the second-largest Catholic population in Southeast Asia isstill some way off.

The Protestant faith
Protestantismwas mainly introduced by the Americans in the south in the form ofmilitant evangelism, and now claims approximately half a millionadherents. Many of these are in the ethnic groups of the CentralHighlands. In recent years, there has been considerable unrest in thearea. American ‘Gospel’ organisations frequently issue ‘reports’alleging human rights abuse and denial of religious freedom. Puttingaside the issue of differing perceptions between the US and Asia aboutwhat constitutes ‘human rights’, a trawl of the Internet soon revealsthat the aim of many such groups are more political than religious.

The buildings
Froma visitor’s point of view, many Catholic churches are well worth avisit. The Gothic edifices of Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Hue and Da Latare replicas of European cathedrals, and often built of importedmaterials. They have attractive features, but the home-grown productsare of greater interest to the traveller.

The famous ‘Stone Church’
Inparticular, the ‘Stone Church’ of Phat Diem in the north, the belltower of which was immortalised by Graham Greene in ‘The QuietAmerican’, is a highly satisfying blend of Christianity and the orient.The lifetime achievement of a Vietnamese cleric, Father Tran Luc, it isan architectural gem combining what looks like a Vietnamese temple atfirst sight with Christian symbolism and statuary. The interior isstunning – a 75m roof supported by huge ironwood pillars and amagnificent altarpiece.

Unusual churches
Manyof the churches in the Central Highlands also combine Western andEastern styles and some have highly unusual features, reflecting thearea’s strong animist tradition